Walking the streets of Genoa

“July 25th, 1881 Continued,

The pavement of the streets is splendid, no small stones but large blocks and is far superior to many sidewalks in Glasgow. We saw some fine streets, passed a theatre, San Carlo Felice and went through the arcades. This is a magnificent place as long as the Via Roma, a street close to it; very broad, lined with fine shops and must look beautiful in the evening when lighted. By this time we suffered somewhat by the heat and papa took us to the Caffee’ Vienese where we sat down in a nice cool place surrounded by flowers and got some iced waters with Amarena. Before we went to dinner on board we visited on our way the principle cathedral of Genoa dedicated to San Lorenzo and owned by the rich family Pallavicini. The building consists almost only of black and white marble. In the front are three large portals that face on the right the chapel of the Virgin Mary, on the left the chapel of San Lorenzo and in the centre the high altar. We were here received by an official with a sword alongside and a baton. He led us to the high altar, showed us first the most beautiful paintings on the ceiling then a Madonna with the child Jesus out of bronze and on the foot of it the harbor of Genoa and some heavy silver candle sticks. Behind the altar is a large place with pews all round which they call, I believe, the choir. Here was everything done in carved wood and all the pictures were mosaic made from wood. Next we visited the chapel of the Virgin Mary where we saw a large painting by Van Dyke representing the crucifixion. This painting was sent to Paris after Napoleon first took Genoa and only restored after his fall. The chapel of San Lorenzo is famous for some marble statues made by Canova, one of the greatest sculptors. Facing the chapel is a statue of a Cardinal Pallavicini, also made by Canova…..”


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